Chasing Currents on the Wisconsin River
- Michael Thornton
- 1 minute ago
- 6 min read
In late May 2024, I pointed my Ford Explorer north and drove from Oklahoma to Wisconsin for my first-ever kayaking expedition. My goal was simple: explore the Wisconsin and Yahara Rivers and see what waited beyond the next bend. This blog focuses on the Wisconsin River and the unforgettable miles I spent paddling through its powerful currents.
On the morning of May 28th, 2024, I set off from Stoughton, Wisconsin, and travelled north on I-90. I had no idea where I was travelling to, but that was a part of the adventure for me. My mind juggled the idea of kayaking a lake in the Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest in Northern Wisconsin or the Wisconsin River in Lake Delton, Wisconsin. Thirty-five minutes into my drive, I passed the City of Lodi and grew restless. I just wanted to be on the water. I looked up beaches near Lake Delton and found a park with a beach along the Wisconsin River, and headed towards my target. On arrival at the park, I saw the Wisconsin River in all of her beauty. I stepped out of the vehicle and walked down to the beach. Along the beach were signs that stated "Caution: Swim at your own risk. Dangerous Current." I looked out into the river and saw the current. It didn't look like anything to worry about. From land, the current seemed weak, not strong. This observation, however, was a rookie mistake. After making this observation, I headed back towards my vehicle.
Once back at my vehicle, I started to unload my kayak. First came the bow and stern connections, which utilized a bungee cord with a carabiner clip. This is my go-to connection for mounting the bow and stern, as I do not trust ropes, knots, and insecure hooks to keep the front and back of a kayak from moving around. After unhooking the carabiner clips from the hitch and front tow clip, next came the straps on the kayak itself. One by one, I threw the straps over and under the kayak, loosening the connection it once had to my kayak mounts on the Ford Explorer.
Finally, she was entirely free. I grabbed her with two hands and set her down on the grass. I took a look at the old gal and sensed a surge of excitement overcome me. I was excited because here I was about to kayak the famous Wisconsin River, something I had never done before! I grabbed my green dry bag, which contained auxiliary gear, like sponges for cleaning up water inside the cockpit and water for my trip. Also onboard was my medical dry bag. This dry bag had everything from band-aids to Israeli bandages, tourniquets, and splints, to name a few. After grabbing my paddles, I made my way down to the beach for my put in.
As I made my way down towards the beach, I noticed a group of geese coming my way. Not wanting to overwhelm them, I sat my kayak down on the grass and watched them pass in front of me. After passing me, I picked the kayak back up and continued on my way. Soon, sand was replaced by water. I started my Garmin GPS and paddled southeast on the Wisconsin River. Only a quarter mile in realization came to me. The currents on the Wisconsin River were much stronger than I had realized from the beach. This was a problem because I had intended to travel south down the river and then north later in the day, as I was by myself and only had one vehicle. I turned around quickly and paddled back north towards the put-in. As I paddled towards the put-in, I thought to myself, "Should I go paddle somewhere else?" But then I thought, "What if I paddled against the strong current north to the Kilbourn Dam? How many people can say they did that?"
Not long after having this thought, I pushed on past the put-in, towards Kilbourn Dam. Being that I was in a composite recreational kayak, it was slow and heavy. This made it very difficult to kayak against the strong currents of the Wisconsin River. Each stroke felt like I was standing still. In fact, I looked to my right, where a beautiful set of cliffs was present and noticed that I hadn't gained on them. Defeated, I thought of another solution. I noticed that the currents were stronger in different areas of the river. For example, near the put-in, the river was calm; however, out towards the middle of the river, the currents were strong. Just north of the put-in, these patterns switched and the outer sections were strong, with the middle of the river calm. If I could identify the calm from the strong, then I'd have a winning shot at doing the impossible.
Slowly, I zig-zagged in and out of strong currents on the Wisconsin River. I must have looked crazy, but I was having fun. I passed wood drifting down the river and fish splashing out of the water. The scenery was absolutely gorgeous. Enormous cliffs and dense forests surrounded me on both sides. I thought to myself, "What did this landscape look like before the intervention of man?" I could only imagine. Then, out of nowhere, a bald eagle flew directly over my head, within feet of my hat. I ducked down, not knowing what had just happened until I saw the iconic white tail surrounded by dark chocolate wings and a golden beak. I muttered under my breath, "Oh my gosh, a bald eagle!" I sat in awe, shocked in amazement by what had just transpired. Not only had I just witnessed my favorite animal in nature, but it had also flown within feet of me. While I had no picture or video to showcase the encounter, I was just grateful to have experienced such an incredible moment myself.
Filled with overjoyment, I paddled around the bend towards the Kilbourn Dam. Not long after, I spotted my first of several Wisconsin Duck Tour Boats, which I shared the waterways with. As we crossed paths, tourists waved and shouted "Hello!" I waved back at them. I wondered if they thought I was crazy or just another paddler. Shortly after this encounter, I looked to my right and saw the bald eagle once again. I stared in amazement, then grabbed my phone and took a photo of it perched high in a tree with cliffs just below. I watched as the bald eagle flew away from the tree. I snapped a few more pictures and then continued to paddle. Minutes later, the bald eagle returned. As the bald eagle returned, it swept downwards towards the Wisconsin River, attacking a resting Mallard. Instantly, I heard the Mallard shriek in terror and realized I was watching the process of life right in front of me. Thankfully for the Mallard, the Bald Eagle left the area after making two attempts at striking it. I watched as the Mallard then returned to its life, as if this were a daily occurrence.
A half-mile later, Wisconsin Dells, Wisconsin, where Kilbourn Dam is located, came into view. I observed chaotic rapids near the dam, noting that the dam must have been open, as is normal during the spring and summer months. With this in mind, I continued north towards the dam. As I closed the gap between myself and the dam, the water became stronger as expected. I felt that I had accomplished enough with this adventure and found a beach to relax at for a few minutes. From here, I began the trip back down the Wisconsin River towards my vehicle. Having fought miles of strong currents, I was ecstatic about the idea of not paddling and just floating.
Floating back towards the put-in, I decided to check out a small creek along the Wisconsin River called Dell Creek. This Creek was fed by Lake Delton, which was famous for flooding in the late 2000s, causing millions of dollars in damage. This was a lovely, secluded, and calm stretch along the Wisconsin River that made you feel like you weren't even in a highly trafficked area. I wish the creek had been longer; however, about a quarter mile into exploration, I came across a gigantic dam and decided it was time to head back to the vehicle. Tracking back towards my vehicle, I came across a female Mallard and several of her ducklings. They were watching me from the shoreline. I stopped and admired them, watching each duckling cautiously splash into the water as if it were their first time.
Once I got to the put-in, I got out of the kayak feeling absolutely renewed by nature and thankful for the experiences the Wisconsin River allowed me to have. I loaded up my kayak onto the Ford Explorer. I then headed into busy downtown Wisconsin Dells, where I stopped at the Dells Bistro to celebrate my accomplishments and experiences on the Wisconsin River. Shortly after, I headed back to Stoughton, where I slept for nearly the rest of the day, exhausted from the currents.
About the writer: Michael Thornton graduated from Rose State College, majoring in Emergency Management. He is the Director of Warren County Emergency Management and an Oklahoma Certified Emergency Manager. In 2024, he was awarded the OEMA Innovator Award for his severe weather operations in Tillman County.